Pot Grown strawberry plants. Cambridge Favourite strawberry plants. Elsanta strawberry plants. Aromel strawberry plants. A huge range of pot grown strawberry aplants for quality and health.
We supply well grown Strawberry plants as pot grown plants, for planting April through September. Strawberry plants are best planted during the growing season. They will then establish to give a full crop of strawberries the following season. Strawberry plants from our nursery planted in the springtime may well produce a good crop the same summer. Our strawberry plants are never just plugs, but well grown plants in 7cm pots. Johns Market garden strawberry plants can be planted straight out into the garden or patio, no need for growing on. Our strawberry plants establish so quickly and easily, after just a few weeks they look as if they had always been there!
Strawberry plant variety recommendations
There are so many varieties of strawberry plant from which to choose, it’s difficult highlighting a handful! Forced to choose we would plant these strawberry plants to provide a succession: Honeyoye for an early, Eros for mid-season, Rhapsody for late summer, and Aromel for Autumn fruiting.
Strawberries....... The most delicious, easily grown and versatile of all the soft fruits. Strawberry plants fit so easily into today's modern gardens and lifestyles. You don’t even need a garden to enjoy the luscious taste of your own home grown chemical free sweet and juicy strawberries. As you will discover here at Superb Strawberry Plants, there is a whole host of growing ideas, hints and tips. Our strawberries begin to fruit so quickly after planting, you don't have long to wait for a return on your investment.
Just 12 strawberry plants can yield you 15-20 ibs of wonderful strawberries. At today's retail prices that's approximately £60 of fruit in one year.
Not bad considering that the plants can yield well for 3 years or more. So there's a strong economic argument for growing your own strawberries and also lets not forget that the flavour difference between your own home grown strawberries and those that you buy in the shops is so vast, if you haven't grown your own strawberry plants before, you will soon come to realise that you didn’t really know what a real strawberry tasted like at all! With strawberries, more than any other fruit this disparity in taste becomes ever more marked.
Strawberries all year round!
Yes, you can harvest your own super delicious strawberries all the year round with just a little planning and advice. Check our calendar regularly for things you should be doing and when you should be planting. With the right choice of varieties, a regular strawberry patch can be in fruit from late May right through to October. This can be extended further by cloching. Then, the invaluable 'day neutral' varieties can be brought into fruit in the sun lounge, greenhouse or conservatory. Delicious strawberries through the winter and at Christmas! Read on to find out how!
Our strawberries can yield just a few weeks after planting.
Always top quality pot grown plants ready and raring to go. You don't need much skill to get your just rewards as the hard works already been done for you and you can select plants that will begin flowering just a few short weeks after planting. We never supply bare rooted runners, our top quality strawberry plants are, rest assured always large pot grown. Some Nurseries may sell you bare rooted runners – even in the summer, when they are taken from so called 'cold storage' [basically the deep freeze]. Such plants can bring variable results and losses are commonplace which is why we would never supply them. Pot grown plants are the preferred choice of professionals – so they should be yours too. Pot grown strawberry plants establish much more quickly, and much more easily and losses are rare if they are planted well.
Our plants are healthy
Although a certification scheme does not exist in the UK for pot grown strawberries, our plants are inspected twice yearly by a DEFRA [formerly the Min of Ag] inspectorate for all serious diseases We always use the healthiest stocks available to propagate from, ministry certified where possible.
Ways to grow strawberries
The strawberry is so versatile, it doesn't matter where you live or what space you do or don't have – you can still grow strawberries and enjoy a bountiful harvest of fruits. We will start with the traditional strawberry bed for which you need a garden but, be patient and discover many more ways to grow strawberry plants in containers.
The Strawberry Bed
A well tended bed of strawberries is a satisfying and extremely productive delight and the plants aren't fussy as to soil type as long as it has reasonable drainage. The plants will grow and fruit even in semi-shade but for the best crops and sweetest flavour choose an open, sunny site. On soils that have poor drainage or are prone to waterlogging, the plants can be planted on raised ridges 4-6" high. Remember the plants will need spacing 15" apart in the rows with the rows themselves about 30" apart. This leaves you room to walk between the rows, picking the fruits and providing cultivation care. Allocate the space you have available and make sure it is well cultivated to a fine tilth to a depth of approx 15" [strawberries are relatively shallow rooted]. Make sure that any perennial weeds are removed at the same time. Incorporate well rotted manure or compost at a rate of around 14ib per square yard. You can also incorporate a well balanced npk fertilizer or feed such as Maxicrop [which is a seaweed extract] Rake the bed over so it is even and flat, and you are ready to plant.
Your strawberry plants should be planted at a depth so that the crown [the base of the plant] sits just level with the soil. Any fleeter and the plants will dry our or become lose. Any deeper and they may rot. Space the plants around 15" apart and allow 30” between rows. If you wish to keep your strawberries for only a year or two spacing can be less. Firm around each pot and water very well, really puddling them in for the first week or two, or until established.
Grow strawberries beneath other fruit bushes
If you have currant bushes, gooseberries, of maybe some dwarf fruit trees, then you can underplant with strawberries. They provide an attractive and productive ground cover under such situations and, because they are shallow rooted, they don't compete much with the host plant. The same principle can be employed in the border, you can even grow your strawberries between or beneath roses and shrubs, as long as the soil isn't too dry or the area too shady. They will in time spread and create an attractive ground cover, discouraging weeds to grow.
Strawberries in Containers
The joy of strawberries in pots is that really any type of container is suitable as long as it has good drainage. The plants are an attractive sight when they begin to flower and especially charming on the patio. Planting densities are higher than with strawberries planted in the open ground. You can buy proprietary strawberry containers or utilise anything spare you have around. It doesn’t matter whether it is plastic, clay or wood. A small pot of maybe 10 litres will happily house 5 plants, obviously the bigger the container the more plants you can have. It should be remembered that container grown strawberries should be yielded for only one season. After that either plant them out in the garden or discard them and start again. It is best to use proprietary peat based compost and if you add some of those water saving crystals it will help keep the plants well irrigated as they grow. Remember the plants will need watering very regularly whenever they are in growth, every day unless it rains. It is especially important to make sure the strawberry plants are well watered as the fruits begin to swell, for the biggest, juiciest berries of all. You can feed the plants with Maxicrop seaweed extract or use those handy little osmocote tablets – one tab will feed the pot for a whole year.
A strawberry hanging basket
Perhaps the most novel and attractive method of growing strawberries of all, an attractive feature beyond compare to hang either side of your doorway or from arches in the garden. The fruits hang down over the sides in a very tempting fashion! Cultivation is just the same as for strawberries in pots and planters. A standard 15-18" basket can happily accommodate 10-12 plants. Slugs are kept at bay and with the added advantage of good air circulation, fungal diseases are discouraged as well. The most important aspect of growing strawberries in hanging baskets is of course very regular watering; they will dry out much more quickly than plants on the ground but as long as this essential requirement is satisfied, then growing in hanging baskets is very definitely a worthwhile and attractive method of cultivation that cancels the requisite of a garden completely.
Strawberries in the greenhouse/under cover – Extended cropping
Strawberries grow well under glass or polythene. For many decades gardeners have grown them in growbags or pots under cover. Cultivation is just the same as with plants in containers outside. The advantage of this is that much earlier crops can be achieved. Varieties that excel in this way include Cambridge Vigour, Elvira, Emily, Honeyoye and Marmolado. The earlier varieties can easily be brought into fruit from early May. At the other end of the season, perpetual varieties will keep on fruiting well into the Autumn as they are protected from frost. Then, don't forget the new class of 'day neutral' varieties. Perhaps the most exciting prospect of all, these invaluable plants can be planted in the greenhouse or conservatory in the Autumn, they will then begin to fruit in flushes right through the winter, as long as the temperature is kept above 12degrees. The term 'day neutral' refers to the fact that the plants are entirely oblivious to day length. So, if the temperature is above a certain level they will grow and flower and fruit even in the winter. They should only be cropped for one season as they use a lot of energy providing fruits in flushes over many, many weeks. You can also encourage your regular strawberry varieties to ripen much earlier outdoors, by the use of cloches which can be applied from March. Be sure to provide ventilation when in flower so that insects can pollinate the flowers, and also on warmer days. Plants treated in this way can begin to ripen a good 2-3 weeks ahead of unprotected plants. Agralan envirofleece can make a good, cheap alternative to cloches and is easy to erect.
Strawberry variety Grouping
When you come to choose the varieties you want to grow you will find there are 3 main classes. The first is the so called traditional or main crop varieties. These produce one flush of fruits in June or July and are further divided into earlies, mids and late season. These are the mainstay of any planting programme and by far the most oft planted providing a big rush of fruits with no special treatment, through the main part of the summer season which, with careful selection of varieties that follow on, can be enjoyed every day for tea time as well as providing a bountiful excess for freezing, pies, smoothies and jams. The second is a group variably called 'Autumn fruiting' 'perpetual' or 'remontant'. These may produce some fruits in the early summer but their main cropping period is during the late summer and Autumn, beginning in August and continuing often until the frosts. Because this time of year is often the driest these varieties benefit from extra watering/irrigation at fruiting time.The final group is the ‘day neutral’ varieties which can flower and fruit at any time when the weather is warm enough and have no defined season at all, producing irregular flushes over several weeks or even months. In the garden this can be at any time from June to October. In the greenhouse they can be disbudded until the Autumn and then allowed to crop during the Winter with gentle heat. The flavour of the day neutral strawberries is not quite as good as with the others, but still provide a tasty treat for out of season fruits and the huge cropping potential outside makes them well worth growing.
Calendar of potential strawberry cropping
April The first early varieties can be had in fruit in the cool greenhouse; Elvira, Gorella and Cambridge Vigour are ideal for such early forcing.
May From plants outdoors, and cloched. Use early varieties like Emily, Rosie and Cambridge Vigour.
June to late July From maincrop varieties, early varieties ripening in June, mid season [for example Eros, Elsanta and Red Gauntlet] at the end of June and late season in July [eg Rhapsody, Florence].
August to October/November The Autumn fruiting or remontant types such as Aromel, Charlotte and Flamenco, which will fruit until the frosts or longer if cloched.
November to March From day neutral varieties grown in gentle warmth in the greenhouse or sun lounge.
Further cultivation hints and tips
As the fruits begin to swell It is advisable to keep the fruits clean from the soil. This is done by 'strawing down' – place handfuls of straw around the base of the plants and underneath the trusses. You can also use mulch mats which have the same effect but are easier to use and clean up. It is not normally required to do this if you are cultivating in pots and containers. This is also the time to apply slug pellets or other slug repellent measures to protect the crop from damage. Another advantage to strawing beneath the berries is that it helps protect the fruits from botrytis [grey mould] which can fafcet the fruits that have become too wet or are laying in contact with the muddy ground.
Protection from birds. Is strongly recommended unless you are planting in a fruit cage or keeping your plants close to the house where an eye can be kept on them. A suspension of net over the strawberry bed is the easiest method, although there are any number of bird scaring remedies on the market.
Fungal and other strawberry diseases. Generally the newer varieties are much less susceptible to disease and tend to remain ‘clean’ with no intervention,. But some varieties, particularly the older ones, may get mildew, leaf spot etc. Always remember that prevention is better than cure; apply an appropriate fungicide at intervals from May onwards, if you are growing a variety that you know can be disease prone. If your plants do get mildew, leaf spot and other foliar diseases, it isn’t the end of the world. They often crop well anyway and such problems tend just obe unsightly. When you clean up the plants in the Autumn by removing all the foliage, the disease usually goes with it.
At the end of the season. When the plants have finished cropping, clean them up by removing all of the old foliage, cut the plants back to around 3", remove and destroy all the foliage. This has the benefit of tidying things up and also stops diseases and bugs from overwintering on the plant. This needn’t bee a laborious task, just cut the plants back with a pair of shears. At the same time remove any unwanted runners that might make the bed too congested, especially those that have settled in the rows, which you want to keep clear. And of course remove any weeds at the same time.
In the early spring Apply another dose of fertiliser in readiness for when the plants begin to flower.